A vague inquiry gets a vague quote. A detailed brief gets a quote you can actually use to make a decision. This guide covers the 8 elements every factory needs in your first inquiry, the 5 questions to ask back, and the red flags that mean the factory is not the right partner — even before you sign anything.
Why Step 1 matters more than you think
- A bad brief at Step 1 leads to wrong samples, missed deadlines, and 3-5x the back-and-forth
- The factory can only quote what you tell them. Missing details = wide-range quotes = wasted time for both sides
- A good brief cuts total development time by 30-50% (1-2 sample rounds instead of 4-5)
The consultation step is a 2-way interview: the factory evaluates you as a customer, you evaluate the factory as a partner. Take it seriously.
The 8 elements every factory needs in your inquiry
1. Product type
Specific garment: t-shirt, polo, hoodie, button-down, jacket, pants, etc. Sub-type: crew neck vs. v-neck, pullover vs. zip-front, lined vs. unlined, slim vs. relaxed fit. One sentence is enough if you have a reference image.
2. Quantity per style, per color
Total order quantity AND split, e.g. “Style A: 500 pieces, 2 colors, 250 each. Style B: 300 pieces, 1 color.” If unknown, give a range (“around 1,000 pieces across 3 styles”) and note that in your comparison — different factories will respond differently to ranges.
3. Reference image or sketch
This is the single most useful element of your brief. Either:
- A photo of the exact garment you want (from a competitor, an existing product, a sample you own)
- A technical sketch with measurements and notes
- A mood board: 2-3 images that capture the look, fit, and feel you want
Be honest about whether the reference is inspiration (you want something similar but not identical) or a target (you want exactly this).
4. Fabric preference
- Specific (best): “180 gsm, 100% cotton, combed, ring-spun, pre-shrunk, 175 cm width”
- General (acceptable): “mid-weight cotton jersey” or “performance polyester with stretch”
- Vague (avoid): “soft cotton” or “good quality fabric” — will get you a wide quote
Ask the factory what they have in stock. Stock fabric is the single biggest hidden discount in apparel sourcing.
5. Color(s)
- Best: Pantone code (e.g. “Pantone 19-4052 TCX” for classic blue)
- Acceptable: approximate name (e.g. “navy”, “heather gray”, “off-white”)
- Custom fabric: lab dip process required (7-10 days, 2-3 rounds typical)
6. Decoration
Be specific about method, location, and complexity:
- Print: screen print (number of colors, plastisol vs. water-based), DTG, sublimation
- Embroidery: location (e.g. “left chest, 7 cm below shoulder seam”), size in cm, approximate stitch count
- Other: heat transfer, appliqué, 3D puff, rhinestone
- For each: number of locations and number of colors
7. Sizes
- Size run: S-M-L-XL or numeric 28-38 or specific to your target market
- Size charts: provide one or specify the market standard (US men’s, EU women’s, JP kids, etc.)
- If size chart varies by style, send the chart with your inquiry
8. Timeline
- When you need the goods in your warehouse (target delivery date)
- Any hard deadlines (trade show, holiday season launch, Kickstarter fulfillment)
- Willing to pay rush fees? (typically 10-20% on the FOB price for orders under 30 days)
The 5 questions to ask the factory back
When the factory responds to your inquiry, ask these to evaluate their professionalism and fit:
- “What is the realistic MOQ for my quantity, given my fabric and decoration needs?” — surfaces any constraint the factory didn’t volunteer (e.g. “your fabric choice has a 500-piece minimum per color”)
- “What fabric options do you have in stock that are close to my preference?” — gives you alternatives that can save time and money
- “Can you show me 2-3 samples or photos of similar products you have made?” — proves they have done this before, surfaces their actual capability
- “What is included in your FOB quote, and what is extra?” — clarifies the incoterm and what’s outside the headline price (sample cost, shipping, decoration, etc.)
- “What payment terms do you typically work with for first-time customers?” — surfaces the factory’s risk tolerance and whether they will work with new buyers
A factory that answers these clearly, quickly, and with specifics is probably a good partner. A factory that is vague, slow, or evasive is probably not — even if the headline price is attractive.
Red flags in Step 1
- “Just send the order, we can figure it out” — factory doesn’t want to commit to a price or a process
- “We can do any quantity” or “no MOQ” — not true. No real factory has zero MOQ. This is usually a trading company.
- No factory photos, no audit reports offered — probably a trading company or a factory that has something to hide
- Quote is 30%+ below 2-3 other comparable quotes — something is missing. Ask for a full breakdown.
- Sample cost is “free” — usually means sample cost is added to the bulk order later, in which case the bulk price is higher than quoted
- Pressure to commit to bulk order before sampling — no legitimate factory needs this
- Communication only via personal WhatsApp / WeChat, not company email — minor red flag, but watch for it
What to do after the consultation step
Once you have 3-5 written quotes back from different factories, the consultation step ends and the comparison step begins.
- Compare side by side using a spreadsheet: price, MOQ, lead time, payment terms, shipping terms, included / excluded items. Our pricing guide has a comparison framework.
- Verify the factory with the 8-step checklist in our factory vetting guide — even a 30% cheaper quote from an unvetted factory is usually the most expensive mistake.
- Pick 1-2 finalists based on price + quality + responsiveness + cultural fit. The factory that responds fastest and most clearly often turns out to be the most reliable.
- Request a sample from each finalist. This moves you into Step 2 of the 5-step process.
- Sign an NDA before sharing detailed tech pack, brand identity, or proprietary design. Most factories will sign an NDA on request; if they refuse, that is itself a red flag.
FAQ
How long should my inquiry be?
Short: 1-2 paragraphs with the 8 elements above, plus a reference image. Long: 1 page with detailed spec. Sweet spot: medium — bullet points with the 8 elements, reference image attached, 3-5 sentences of context (who you are, what the product is for, when you need it). Anything shorter is too vague; anything longer is over-engineered for a first inquiry.
Should I email multiple factories at once?
Yes, 3-5 is standard. Gives you comparison and bargaining power. More than 5 is too much to manage for first-time inquiries. Make each inquiry identical so you can compare quotes apples-to-apples. Track them in a spreadsheet with the 8 elements and the factory’s response on each.
What if I do not know some of the elements?
Best: state “open to suggestions” and ask the factory to recommend. Acceptable: provide a range (e.g. “180-200 gsm”). Avoid: leaving it blank — the factory will guess and the quote will be wide.
Should I share my brand info in the first inquiry?
Brand name and contact: yes, the factory needs to know who they are working with. Brand identity / logo / proprietary design: only after sample fee is paid and you are in a working relationship. Trade secrets, pricing strategy, customer lists: never. The factory may share information with other brands or their own private label business.
How quickly should I expect a response?
- 24-48 hours: normal for a first inquiry
- Over 72 hours: factory is busy, not interested, or not professional. Move on.
- Same-day response: usually a good sign of an organized, customer-focused factory
What if the factory comes back with a counter-suggestion?
This is usually a good sign. The factory is engaging with your project, not just rubber-stamping. Evaluate: is the suggestion reasonable? Does it save cost or improve quality? If yes, accept. If no, ask why they suggested it — their answer tells you a lot about how they think.
What if I do not have a reference image?
Use a similar product from a competitor or a stock photo as inspiration. Be explicit that it is inspiration, not a target. Provide a sketch with measurements and key details (collar type, sleeve length, pocket placement, hem style) so the factory has something concrete to quote against.
Should I include my target price in the first inquiry?
Yes, if you have one. It saves time for both sides — the factory can suggest alternatives if your target is unrealistic, and you avoid wasting time on quotes you cannot afford. If you do not have a target, say so (“open on price for the right factory”) and the factory will quote based on standard specs.
How this fits the 5-step process
Step 1 (Consultation) sets up everything downstream. A good Step 1 leads to:
- The 5-Step Custom Apparel Process (overview) — where Step 1 sits in the full 60-120 day journey
- Private Label vs OEM vs ODM — choose the model before you brief the factory
- How to Vet a Custom Apparel Factory — even before you send the brief, vet the factory
- Custom Apparel Pricing — interpret the quote that comes back from Step 1
How we work at Kemondo
At Kemondo Apparel, our Step 1 consultation includes:
- A written feasibility assessment (yes / no on each element of your brief)
- 2-3 fabric suggestions if your preferred fabric is not in stock
- A sample of similar past work (photos, with permission)
- A written quote with full breakdown (fabric, trims, labor, decoration, finishing, packaging) within 24-48 hours
- No obligation, no fee for the consultation itself
If we are not the right factory for your project, we will tell you in Step 1 — better than wasting 2-3 weeks on samples that go nowhere.
Start a Step 1 consultation: Message us on WhatsApp with your brief (or even just an idea). We usually reply within 12 hours.