If you want OEM apparel work done right, the single most important document is the tech pack. A good tech pack cuts your sampling rounds from 4-5 down to 1-2, reduces costly mistakes, and gives you legal protection if the bulk does not match. This guide covers what to include, common mistakes, and the free template we use.

What is a tech pack and why factories need one

A tech pack is a written document that tells the factory exactly what to make: every fabric, every measurement, every stitch, every label. It is the single source of truth between you and the production team.

Without a tech pack:

  • The factory guesses — and you spend weeks iterating samples that miss the mark
  • You cannot compare quotes from two factories on an apples-to-apples basis
  • Bulk production diverges from the approved sample because there is no written reference
  • You have no contractual anchor if the final product is wrong

With a good tech pack:

  • The factory gets it right in 1-2 samples instead of 4-5
  • Quotation is faster and more accurate (the factory does not have to ask 20 questions)
  • Bulk matches the approved sample because the spec is documented
  • You can show the tech pack to a third-party QC inspector to verify bulk quality

The math: a good tech pack takes 4-8 hours to create. It typically saves 30-50% of total development time. For a small brand, that is the difference between a 2-month launch and a 4-month launch.

What goes in a tech pack: the 8 sections

1. Cover page

  • Brand name, season (e.g. SS27, FW26), style name and number
  • Tech pack version (v1, v2, v3) and date
  • Contact info: your name, email, WeChat
  • Sample size range (e.g. S-M-L-XL, or numeric 28-38)
  • Reference image or mood board: 1-3 inspiration photos that capture the look you want

2. Bill of Materials (BOM)

List every material that goes into one garment:

  • Shell fabric: composition (e.g. 100% cotton, 95% cotton 5% spandex), weight in gsm, width, finish, Pantone color
  • Lining fabric (if applicable): same fields as shell
  • Trim list: main label, care label, size label, hang tag, zipper, buttons, drawstring, elastic, thread, drawcord tips, snaps, velcro
  • For each trim: supplier reference (if you have one), color, quantity per garment

3. Measurement spec (spec sheet)

This is the most error-prone section. Include:

  • Point of measure (POM) table: measurements for every size (chest, length, sleeve, shoulder, hem, etc.)
  • Tolerance: ±0.5 cm is standard for most measurements; ±1.0 cm is acceptable for loose garments like hoodies; ±0.3 cm for knits with stretch
  • Reference image or sketch showing exactly where each POM is taken (e.g. “chest = 2 cm below armhole, measured flat, edge to edge”)
  • Graded spec: how sizes differ from S to M to L (e.g. “M chest = S chest + 5 cm”)

4. Construction details

Tells the factory how to put the garment together:

  • Stitch type: lockstitch (main seams), overlock (seam neatening), coverstitch (hem), chainstitch (denim), 5-thread safety stitch (premium knits)
  • Stitch per inch (SPI): 10-12 for main seams, 14-18 for topstitch, 8-10 for denim
  • Seam allowance: 1 cm is standard; 0.6 cm for shirts; 1.5 cm for heavy outerwear
  • Special construction: bartacks at stress points (pocket corners, belt loops, button holes), felled seams for jeans, French seams for silk, flatlock for athletic wear
  • Trim attachment: label position (e.g. “main label centered below back neck, 1.5 cm down from collar seam”), hang tag loop position, button sewing pattern (cross, parallel, custom logo)

5. Artwork and decoration

If your garment has print, embroidery, or other decoration:

  • Location: front center, left chest (7 cm below shoulder seam), back neck, sleeve hem, etc. — with a reference image
  • Size: in cm or inches, with placement coordinates from a fixed reference point (e.g. “25 cm wide, centered horizontally, 10 cm below back neck”)
  • Pantone colors: for every color in the artwork, use Pantone TPX (textile) or TCX (cotton) codes
  • Method: screen print (number of colors, plastisol vs water-based), DTG, sublimation, embroidery (stitch count), heat transfer, appliqué
  • Artwork files: vector (AI, EPS, PDF) for prints, high-res PNG for DTG, DST or EMB for embroidery

6. Color

For every fabric, trim, thread, and label, give a Pantone code. Common mistakes:

  • Saying “navy blue” instead of “Pantone 19-3933 TPX” — every factory will match a different navy
  • Using Pantone C (coated paper) instead of TPX/TCX (textile) — these are different color systems
  • Forgetting thread color — wrong thread on a black garment looks instantly cheap

Lab dip process: 7-10 days for first lab dip, 2-3 rounds typical. Most factories will do the first lab dip free; subsequent rounds are 30-80 USD each.

7. Quality standards

Tells the factory what counts as a defect and what does not:

  • AQL level: 2.5 is the apparel industry norm; 4.0 is acceptable for low-cost basics; 1.0 is premium/luxury
  • Acceptable defects list: size tolerance (±X cm per measurement), color tolerance (within ΔE 1.5 of approved lab dip), minor stitching irregularities
  • Critical defects: anything that makes the garment unwearable (broken seam, hole, missing label, wrong fabric) — 0% tolerance
  • Major defects: visibly off (uneven hem, twisted seam, color shift) — typically 1% AQL
  • Minor defects: cosmetic only (loose thread, slight color variation) — typically 2.5% AQL

8. Packaging

  • Folding method: standard flat fold (T-shirt), hanger fold (shirts, jackets), rolled (knitwear to avoid crease)
  • Individual poly bag: size, thickness (usually 0.03-0.05 mm), with or without zipper, with or without hang hole
  • Inner box: quantity per inner box (5-20 pieces typical), tissue paper, insert card
  • Master carton: weight limit (15-20 kg for hand-carry, 20-25 kg for shipping), dimensions (L x W x H), corrugate layers (3-ply or 5-ply)
  • Shipper markings: carton number (1/40, 2/40…), PO number, style name, color, size run, gross weight, net weight, dimensions, country of origin
  • Retail UPC placement: sticker on poly bag, hang tag, or printed on label

Common mistakes that delay sampling

  1. Vague fabric description. “Nice cotton” instead of “180 gsm, 100% cotton, combed, ring-spun, pre-shrunk, 175 cm width, Pantone 11-0601 TCX”. The factory cannot quote accurately without specifics.
  2. Missing Pantone codes. Forcing the factory to guess colors means every sample looks different.
  3. No measurement tolerance. The factory builds to ±1.0 cm; you wanted ±0.5 cm. By the time you see the sample, the difference is locked in.
  4. Sending sketches instead of technical flats. A hand sketch is great for the cover page, useless for the spec. The factory needs front + back flats with construction details.
  5. Mixing “I want” with “I need”. “I want a soft hand feel” is a wish. “I want 30s single jersey, 140 gsm, pre-washed” is a spec. Use both, but be clear which is which.
  6. Not specifying stitch type. The factory uses the cheapest acceptable stitch; you wanted premium. Add it to the tech pack.
  7. Forgetting care label content. Most countries require fiber content, country of origin, and care symbols. The factory can provide care symbols, but you need to specify which system (ISO 3758, ASTM D5489, JIS L0217).

Tools for creating tech packs

  • Adobe Illustrator: industry standard for flats (technical drawings)
  • Adobe Photoshop: for tech pack layout, callouts, mockup visualization
  • Excel or Google Sheets: for spec sheets, BOM, cost sheets
  • Free alternatives: Inkscape (vector), GIMP (raster), LibreOffice Calc (specs)
  • Tech pack software: Techpacker, Sourcing Playground (paid, purpose-built). Free templates on Creative Chase, YouTube, and several factory websites.

For your first 1-2 styles, a free template + Adobe Illustrator is enough. If you scale to 10+ styles per season, consider Techpacker or a similar tool — the time savings pay for the subscription quickly.

How long does a tech pack take to create?

Garment complexity Time to create tech pack
Simple (basic t-shirt, no decoration) 2-4 hours
Medium (knit top with print, 2 trims) 4-8 hours
Complex (jacket, jeans, multi-fabric) 8-20 hours
First style in your career 1-2 days (you will redo sections)
Style 5+ in your career 2-4 hours (template + speed)

For a small brand doing 3-5 styles per season, expect to spend 1-2 weeks total on tech packs before sampling. This is upfront work that pays back many times over.

FAQ

Do I need a tech pack for private label?

No. Private label uses the factory’s existing spec; you just pick from their catalog. Tech packs are for OEM work (where you own the design).

Can I just send a reference image and let the factory figure it out?

For an exploratory sample, yes. For a bulk order, no — you will iterate 3-5 times and still not get what you want. The cost of those iterations (sample fees + time) is more than the cost of writing a tech pack.

Does the factory help with the tech pack?

Some do, most do not. They expect you to know what you want. Factories that offer tech pack development usually charge 200-500 USD per style, which is sometimes worth it for the first 1-2 styles.

What if I am not technical?

Hire a freelance tech pack designer (30-80 USD per style on Fiverr, Upwork, or specialized platforms). For your first style, it is worth it. After 2-3 styles, you will be able to do it yourself.

What if my factory has a different measurement standard?

Always specify in centimeters and include the measurement method. Avoid relying on size labels (S/M/L) which vary wildly between markets. If you are selling to the US, also provide a converted inch spec alongside the cm one.

Should the tech pack be in English or Chinese?

English is fine for most Chinese factories — they work in English daily. For a smoother flow on technical terms, also include a Chinese translation of the key sections (BOM, spec, color). Your factory will thank you, and you will get fewer misinterpretations.

How this fits the OEM model

Tech packs are non-negotiable for OEM. If you are still deciding between private label, ODM, and OEM, our Private Label vs OEM vs ODM guide walks through the trade-offs. If you are deciding on quantity, our MOQ guide shows what to expect by product type. And before you send any tech pack anywhere, our factory vetting guide makes sure you are sending it to a partner that will actually deliver.

How we work at Kemondo

At Kemondo Apparel, we accept tech packs in any format: PDF, Illustrator file, Google Sheets, or even annotated photos. For clients who do not have a tech pack yet, we provide a starter template (free, on request) and review your draft at no charge as part of the quote process. Typical sampling turnaround: 5-7 days after tech pack approval.

Request a quote with your tech pack (or get a template): Message us on WhatsApp. We usually reply within 12 hours.