How to Source Custom T-Shirts: Fabric, Fit, Decoration, and Pricing

Custom t-shirts are the most ordered garment in apparel, and also the most frequently mis-sourced. The category looks simple, which hides the decisions that determine whether your brand gets compliments or returns: which jersey construction, what GSM, how the neckline is built, whether the print will crack, and whether the fit you ordered is the fit you get. This guide walks through every specification that matters, with the cost and MOQ impact of each.

The 5 decisions that define a t-shirt

Construction: the choice that changes everything

Single jersey

• One layer of knit, face side and back side look slightly different
• 4-way stretch, fluid drape, the cheapest per yard
• Curls at the hem and cuffs — this is normal and not a defect, but it is what distinguishes a jersey tee from a better one
• Best for: screen print, DTG, everyday tees, promotional
• 130-260 gsm range

Interlock

• Two layers of single jersey knitted together
• Does not curl, smooth surface, more opaque, holds shape better
• 20-30% more expensive than single jersey
• Best for: blank garments, logos, printing where a smooth surface matters, layering pieces
• 220-280 gsm range

Slub jersey

• Yarn with intentional irregular thickness, creating a textured surface
• Naturally vintage-looking, hides wrinkles, does not need washing for a lived-in feel
• 10-20% more expensive than smooth jersey
• Best for: craft-beer and workwear-inspired brands, “no-iron” positioning
• 140-200 gsm range

Pique

• Textured waffle-like knit with small holes
• More breathable and structured than jersey
• Also the standard polo construction (covered in the polo guide)
• 180-240 gsm range

Ring-spun vs carded vs combed

• Carded: cheapest, slightly scratchy, retains some short fibers. Avoid for premium positioning
• Combed: short fibers removed, smoother and more durable. The quality baseline for serious brands
• Ring-spun: yarn twisted and thinned during spinning, softest and strongest. 15-25% premium, used by premium brands for a reason

Combed vs carded: is it worth the difference?

Combed costs roughly 0.20-0.40 USD per garment more at typical order quantities. For a premium-priced tee, the hand feel difference is visible to the customer and worth it. For a promo shirt at 8 USD retail, it is not, and your margin cannot absorb it.

Fabric weight: what GSM actually means for a tee

The opacity rule

• Dark fabrics need 200+ gsm to be fully opaque on light skin
• Light fabrics under 150 gsm are see-through
• If your market is EU or premium, specify 200+ gsm minimum for any light color

Garment weight versus fabric GSM

A 180 gsm single jersey t-shirt in size M weighs 180-200 g of fabric, which becomes a garment weighing 200-230 g. People comparing t-shirts use garment weight, and the difference matters for the “is this substantial” perception. Ask your factory for the finished garment weight, not just the fabric GSM.

Blends: choosing what you will actually sell

The honest tradeoff

Cotton feels better and prints better. Polyester lasts longer, washes cleaner, and does not shrink. For a streetwear brand selling 200+ gsm premium tees, 100% combed cotton is the right call. For a brand selling gym tees, activewear, or anything washed hard, a poly blend is right. For a general apparel brand selling at a mid price point, 80/20 cotton/poly is the safest choice — it looks like cotton, washes like cotton, and costs the same.

The neckline: where most budget tees give themselves away

The neck is the highest-visibility construction detail on a t-shirt. It is also the most commonly under-specified.

Neck rib specifications

• Width: 2.0-2.5 cm (about 1 inch) is standard for adult tees. Wider looks sporty; narrower looks premium and vintage
• Material: match the body fabric. 100% cotton rib on a cotton body is standard; adding 3-5% elastane improves recovery noticeably
• Length: the rib should be long enough to cover the seam allowance plus 1-1.5 cm with no exposure when the garment is stretched
• Color: the neck rib must be dyed in the same dye lot as the body. A mismatched neck is immediately visible

Shoulder seam construction

Other neckline options

• Crew neck: the default. Specify the rib width and the depth (18-20 cm at center front for adult M)
• V-neck: requires ribbing with more stretch and a deeper binding. Specify the V depth (18-22 cm) and whether it is a split or seamless V
• Henley: adds a placket with buttons. Adds 1.50-2.50 USD per piece
• Boat neck: wide, horizontal, more modern. Restricts who it suits

Fit: the highest-leverage decision

Fit types and measurements (size M)

Boxy fit: the sizing rules that make it work

Oversized tees fail in a specific way: the body is wide but the length is not proportionally long, so it looks like a regular tee stretched out. For a true boxy fit:

• Body width 58-64 cm at size M
• Length 73-76 cm at size M
• Shoulder seam dropped 4-6 cm
• Sleeve hem wide and often finished with a wide rib or a raw/open hem
• Body length graded at 2-3 cm per size, wider than the 1-2 cm of a regular fit

Unisex vs gendered

• Unisex sizing runs 2-4 cm wider in the chest than men’s sizing
• Offering a single unisex run is simpler and less risky for a first order, but you must label it clearly
• State it on the product page: “unisex fit, chest 52 cm at M” removes the ambiguity entirely

Size run for a first order

• Standard: S, M, L, XL
• Common allocation: S 20%, M 30%, L 28%, XL 17%, XXL 5%
• Streetwear runs run larger: S 15%, M 28%, L 30%, XL 22%, XXL 5%, because the fit is loose and customers size down more often

Full grading and spec details are in our sizing and grading guide.

Decoration on t-shirts

Screen print

• Best for: 1-4 color designs, 500+ units, logos and type
• Cost: 0.30-1.50 USD per color per location, setup 30-80 USD per color per location
• Plastisol is opaque and durable; water-based is softer and better on 100% cotton but less saturated
• On dark garments specify a white underbase, or the colors will look muddy

DTG

• Best for: photographic or multicolor designs, small batches, per-piece personalization
• Cost: 2.00-5.00 USD per location, minimal setup
• Works best on 100% cotton; blends render less vividly
• Not cost-effective above roughly 1,000 units for the same design

Embroidery

• Best for: small left-chest logos, premium positioning
• Cost: 0.50-3.00 USD per location, digitizing setup 30-50 USD per design
• Viable from 30-50 units because the setup is small

Sublimation

• Requires 100% polyester
• All-over print, full color, 1.00-3.00 USD per piece

Heat transfer

• Best for: single pieces, names and numbers, quick turnaround
• 0.50-2.00 USD per piece, 25-50 wash durability

Choosing by quantity

The full method comparison is in our decoration methods guide.

Cost breakdown

Realistic FOB costs for a 500-piece order of 180 gsm 80/20 cotton/poly crewneck tees with a 1-color left-chest screen print, 6 colors total across the run:

What moves the cost on tees

• Fabric weight: 150 gsm to 220 gsm adds roughly 0.30-0.50 USD per piece
• Fabric type: ring-spun 100% cotton adds 0.40-0.80 USD per piece
• Number of print colors: each additional color adds 0.30-1.50 USD per piece plus 30-80 USD setup
• Print area size: a large back print needs a bigger screen, so fewer units fit per screen and the setup amortizes worse
• Custom fabric color: 15-30% surcharge below mill minimums, or a 1,500-piece minimum per color

MOQ and lead time for tees

Stage-by-stage timing is in our lead times guide, and the MOQ logic behind custom fabric minimums is in our MOQ guide.

8 mistakes that cost t-shirt brands money

1. Specifying GSM but not opacity — a 150 gsm white tee is see-through. Specify 180+ gsm minimum for light colors, 200+ for premium markets.
2. Not specifying the neck rib width and material — a 1.5 cm narrow rib on a 200 gsm body looks cheap and rolls. Specify 2.0-2.5 cm, and match the blend to the body.
3. Forgetting the shoulder seam construction — “set-in” versus “dropped” changes the whole silhouette. Write it in the tech pack.
4. Skipping the size set sample — grading errors in tees are the top cause of fit returns. Sample the full run.
5. Printing without an underbase on dark garments — the graphic looks muddy and unprofessional. Specify the underbase explicitly.
6. Requesting one color across six colorways — each color is a separate dye lot. One color across 500 units is far cheaper than six colors across 500 units.
7. Not pre-shrinking the body and the rib consistently — mismatched shrinkage makes the neck look twisted after washing.
8. Ordering 5,000 pieces for a discount — the 5-15% unit discount is dwarfed by the risk of unsold inventory and the wrong size mix. See our returns and inventory guide for the math.

Quality checks specific to t-shirts

Generic garment inspections miss the details that make or break a tee. Add these to the inspection brief:

• Neck rib: flat, not rolled or wavy, correct width, no exposed seam allowance when stretched
• Shoulder seam: matching seam type on both sides, no puckering, no twist
• Side seams: straight, no spiraling, hem level all the way around
• Collar: rebounds when stretched, no permanent deformation
• Print: no cracking at the fold lines, correct Pantone match, no bleeding into the fabric, registration correct between colors
• Hem and sleeve hems: even, clean, and the same stitch density as the body
• Labels: correct fiber content, correct size, positioned per spec

How to structure the inspection request is covered in our QC and AQL guide.

Packaging for t-shirts

• Flat fold, folded in thirds or in half, with a size sticker on the poly bag
• Self-sealing poly bags, 0.04-0.05 mm, perforated
• Typical unit load: 40-60 tees per master carton depending on size mix
• A 20ft container typically holds 15,000-20,000 tees; a 40ft high cube holds 35,000-45,000

The carton and container math is in our packaging and container optimization guide.

FAQ

What is the cheapest way to make custom t-shirts?

Stock fabric (no custom color), 100 pieces per style per color, and 100% cotton for a blank white or black tee with no decoration. That lands around 2.40-2.80 USD FOB per piece. Add print and you are at 3.40-3.80. Below 2.30 USD FOB for anything with labels or decoration, something is being omitted from the spec.

Should I use 100% cotton or cotton/poly?

100% cotton for premium and dry-hand-feel positioning, and for anything with heavy print. Cotton/poly (80/20) for volume, uniforms, gym wear, and anything washed frequently. Cotton/poly shrinks less, holds shape longer, and usually costs the same. Your customer-facing quality signal is the finish, not the fiber content.

What GSM is best for a premium t-shirt?

200-240 gsm. Below 180 reads as thin, above 260 is a heavyweight piece that needs a streetwear positioning. If you want a premium feel without the heavyweight look, use 180-200 gsm combed ring-spun rather than 200 gsm carded.

How many colors should I launch with?

One. Every color is a separate dye lot with its own minimum, its own inventory, and its own sell-through risk. Launch one color, learn the size mix and the true return rate, then add a second color on the reorder. Two colors on the first order is the most common unnecessary cost.

What is the difference between single jersey and interlock?

Single jersey is one layer, curls slightly at the hem, and is cheaper. Interlock is two layers knitted together, does not curl, is more opaque, and costs 20-30% more. For a blank garment you will print on and resell, interlock is worth it. For a promotional tee, single jersey is fine.

Does screen print crack on a cotton tee?

Good plastisol does not crack with normal wear, but it can crack if the fabric is heavily stretched and the ink is too thick, or if the tee is washed hot and dried hot. Specify plastisol with a soft-hand additive if drape matters, and tell your customers to wash cold and hang dry. Our color and dye guide covers related colorfastness questions.

How do I reduce t-shirt returns?

Sizing is 60-70% of apparel returns, and it applies fully here. The four highest-impact fixes: put actual garment measurements in your product photography, state the chest measurement per size in cm, say whether the fit is regular or oversized, and disclose the shrinkage percentage. Our returns and inventory guide covers the economics.

Is it worth ordering tees with a custom color at 500 pieces?

Sometimes, but check the alternative first: many mills already have standard colors in stock (black, white, heather grey, navy, burgundy, forest green, royal blue). Using a stock color usually costs nothing extra and lets you order 200 pieces. Only pay the custom-dye premium if the color is genuinely part of your brand identity and you have the volume to justify 500-1,500 pieces.

What MOQ do I need for a first t-shirt order?

200-300 pieces per style per color with stock fabric and one print color. That is the point where the screen setup cost amortizes properly and you can still afford the risk. Below 100, DTG usually costs less than screen print once setup is counted.

How this fits the buyer journey

Everything in the general cluster applies. These are the ones that matter most for t-shirts:

• Custom Fabric Development — GSM, yarn count, blends, shrinkage test
• Sizing and Grading — fit types, chest measurements, size run
• Decoration Methods — choosing print vs DTG vs embroidery by quantity
• Color and Dye Development — matching the body, rib, and thread colors
• Custom Apparel Pricing — what moves the cost per piece
• MOQ Guide — stock vs custom fabric minimums
• Lead Times — tees are the fastest category
• Trims and Labels — neck labels, size stickers, tags
• QC and AQL — the t-shirt-specific inspection checks
• Packaging — fold method and container loading
• Hoodies and Sweatshirts — the same decisions for knitwear
• Private Label vs OEM vs ODM — choosing your production model
• The 5-Step Process — the full workflow

How we work at Kemondo

At Kemondo Apparel, t-shirts are the volume backbone of our production, so we can keep a first order genuinely small. Our stock jersey library covers 150-260 gsm in single jersey, interlock, and slub, in 100% cotton, cotton/poly, and poly, in 12 standard colors — which means a 200-piece first run in a stock color is realistic, with no custom dye minimum. Every quote we send includes fabric construction, GSM, yarn count, neck rib width and material, shoulder seam type, and the finished garment weight, so you can build a complete spec without a follow-up email. We send a full size set with every order to verify grading before bulk, our pre-shipment inspection includes the t-shirt-specific checks above, and our standard neck rib is 2.2 cm with 3% elastane for recovery. For brands doing streetwear programs, we run boxy fits with dropped shoulders and graded length as a standard pattern, and we can develop custom knit patterns beyond that. Sample turnaround on a standard crewneck is 5-7 days from approved tech pack.

Planning a t-shirt program and want a real quote? Message us on WhatsApp with your fabric preference, quantity, fit, and decoration idea. We usually reply within 12 hours with a full cost breakdown and an honest read on the MOQ and timeline.