Every custom apparel order follows the same 5-step journey. This guide walks through each step in detail, what to expect at each stage, typical timelines, and the most common mistakes that delay orders. By the end, you will know exactly what happens between “I have an idea” and “I have inventory on the shelf.”
Why understand the 5-step process
- Sets realistic timelines: inquiry to delivery is usually 60-120 days for OEM
- Helps you identify the bottleneck when an order stalls
- Lets you build a checklist of what you need to prepare at each step
- Gives you vocabulary to communicate with the factory
Overview: 5 steps, 60-120 days
| Step | What happens | Typical duration |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Consultation | Inquiry, quote, factory selection | 3-7 days |
| 2. Sample Approval | Pre-production sample made, refined, approved | 7-21 days |
| 3. Bulk Production | Fabric + trims sourcing, cutting, sewing, decoration | 25-50 days |
| 4. QC Inspection | In-line, final, pre-shipment inspections | 3-7 days |
| 5. Shipping & Delivery | Packing, export, ocean freight, import, last mile | 25-40 days |
Step 1: Consultation (3-7 days)
What happens
You submit an inquiry: product type, quantity, reference image, target price. The factory responds with a feasibility assessment, MOQ guidance, and a preliminary quote. You and the factory clarify any open questions (fabric, decoration, packaging). You receive a formal quote with breakdown.
What you need to provide
- Reference image or sketch
- Product type and approximate quantity per style and color
- Target fabric or weight (if known)
- Target price range (helps the factory suggest appropriate options)
- Timeline requirements (when you need the goods)
What the factory provides
- Feasibility: yes, we can make this (or here is what is not feasible)
- Preliminary quote: FOB price range based on your info
- Suggestions: “have you considered fabric X, it is similar but 20% cheaper”
- Sample cost and lead time
Common mistakes at this step
- Vague inquiry: “I want a t-shirt, how much?” gets a vague quote back
- No reference: factory has to guess, quote is wide and unreliable
- Unrealistic target price: factory ignores you or quotes low then renegotiates later
- No timeline: factory quotes 90-day lead time, you need it in 30
Deliverable
A formal quote with full breakdown, sample cost and timeline, and a suggested next step (sample order or tech pack development).
Step 2: Sample Approval (7-21 days)
What happens
You confirm the order and pay the sample fee. The factory sources fabric and makes a pre-production sample (PPS). The sample is shipped to you via DHL or FedEx (3-7 days). You review, request changes if needed, the factory revises. Final sample is approved and bulk production starts.
What you need to provide
- Approved quote (sign-off on price, MOQ, lead time)
- Sample fee (30-80 USD per style, usually refunded on bulk)
- Detailed feedback on the first sample (measurements, fabric hand feel, color, fit)
- Sign-off on the final sample (the “golden sample” — bulk must match)
What the factory provides
- First sample (5-10 days after sample fee + materials confirmed)
- Lab dips for color approval (if custom fabric)
- Print strike-off or embroidery sample (if decoration)
- Revisions based on your feedback (1-3 rounds typical)
- Final approved sample
Common mistakes at this step
- Not providing detailed feedback — “looks good” is not enough
- Approving the sample too quickly — you cannot change your mind after bulk starts
- Not measuring the sample against your spec — fabric weight, measurements, hand feel
- Skipping lab dip approval — color is set when you approve the lab dip, not the sample
- Not testing the sample (wash it, wear it, check decoration durability)
Deliverable
An approved pre-production sample, lab dip approval (if custom fabric), print strike-off or embroidery sample approval, and the tech pack finalized with any sample-driven changes.
Step 3: Bulk Production (25-50 days)
What happens
The factory sources bulk fabric and trims (5-10 days for stock fabric, 15-25 days for custom fabric). Then they cut fabric (1-2 days), sew (5-15 days depending on style and quantity), apply decoration (3-7 days), finish (washing, pressing, QC, 2-5 days), and pack (1-3 days).
What you need to provide
- 30-50% deposit (per agreed payment terms)
- Final approval to start bulk
- Patience — production updates are weekly at best
What the factory provides
- Production schedule (high level: when each milestone will hit)
- In-line inspection report (at 30-50% production)
- Photos or videos of progress (if requested)
- Pre-shipment sample (for comparison to the approved PPS)
Common mistakes at this step
- Changing the spec mid-production — fabric, color, design changes are very expensive at this stage
- Rushing the factory — speed kills quality
- Not approving the in-line inspection — by final inspection, rework is much more expensive
- Not communicating — silence leads to assumptions, and assumptions lead to delays
Deliverable
100% production complete, final inspection passed, and goods ready for packing.
Step 4: QC Inspection (3-7 days)
What happens
Three inspection stages happen during and after production. In-line inspection (DUPRO) at 30-50% production. Final random inspection (FRI) at 100% production. Pre-shipment inspection (PSI) after packing. Inspection reports are delivered to you. Any defects are remediated through rework, replacement, or discount.
What you need to provide
- Approval of the in-line report (continue production or remediate)
- Approval of the final report (ship or rework)
- Approval of the pre-shipment report (release balance payment)
What the factory provides
- Detailed inspection reports with measurements, photos, and AQL results
- Pass / fail decision per inspection
- Remediation plan for any defects (rework, discount, or reject)
Common mistakes at this step
- Skipping in-line inspection to save cost — catches late-stage problems too late
- Trusting the factory’s own QC exclusively — they have a conflict of interest
- Not specifying AQL in your tech pack — without it, the factory defaults to the lowest standard
- Approving inspection reports without reading them — the photos and numbers tell the real story
Deliverable
Three inspection reports (if all stages are done), quality conformance confirmed, and goods released for shipping.
Step 5: Shipping & Delivery (25-40 days)
What happens
Goods are packed into master cartons. Factory-side export clearance is filed. Ocean freight (or air freight) transports the goods to your destination. Import customs clearance is filed. Last-mile delivery brings the goods to your warehouse.
What you need to provide
- Balance payment (per agreed terms)
- Shipping address and any special delivery instructions
- Customs broker coordination (if FOB or CIF)
- Final destination confirmation (if DDP)
What the factory provides
- Packing list (full inventory of what is in the shipment)
- Commercial invoice (for customs)
- Bill of lading (for sea) or air waybill (for air)
- Certificate of origin (if needed for your country’s duty calculation)
- Any required export documentation (fumigation certificate, textile declaration, etc.)
Common mistakes at this step
- Not budgeting for duties, customs broker, and last-mile delivery
- Not having a customs bond in place (US imports require one)
- Skipping cargo insurance — 0.3-0.5% of cargo value for full coverage
- Using the wrong HS code — wrong duty rate, sometimes 2-3x off
Deliverable
Goods in your warehouse, all customs cleared, inventory ready to sell.
Total timeline: realistic expectations
| Scenario | Total days |
|---|---|
| Private label, stock fabric, simple decoration | 45-65 days |
| OEM, stock fabric, custom decoration | 60-90 days |
| OEM, custom fabric, complex decoration | 90-130 days |
| Full-package OEM, custom knit development | 120-180 days |
How to speed up (without sacrificing quality)
- Stock fabric instead of custom fabric — saves 10-15 days on fabric sourcing
- Provide a complete tech pack upfront — saves 5-10 days of back-and-forth
- Approve samples and lab dips quickly — factory is bottlenecked on your decision, not on production
- Pay the deposit immediately — factory cannot source fabric without deposit
- Combine sample and bulk in one inquiry — saves a step of formal quotation
- Use a freight forwarder the factory trusts — saves booking time and reduces friction
- Pre-clear customs broker and bond — saves 1-3 days at import clearance
FAQ
How long does the first order take vs. repeat orders?
First order: 60-120 days (factory is learning your spec, sourcing new fabric, dialing in your decoration). Repeat orders: 40-70 days (factory has your fabric, decoration, labels, and packaging all set up). The 20-30% time savings on repeat orders is significant if you plan a 2-3 order production schedule.
Can the factory hold my fabric and labels in stock?
Yes, after the first order. Most factories will keep your custom fabric, labels, and tags in their warehouse for 6-12 months. This reduces repeat order lead time by 10-20 days. The factory may charge a small storage fee (typically 1-2% of fabric value per year) but it is usually worth it for repeat orders.
What if I need the order urgently?
- Air freight instead of sea — adds 4-8 USD per kg but cuts 15-25 days
- Rush production — factory may add 10-20% rush fee for orders under 30 days
- Order from stock blank instead of custom — if private label is acceptable
- Accept partial shipment — ship available pieces first, back-order the rest
What if a step takes longer than expected?
Communication is key. Ask the factory for an updated timeline weekly. Most delays are minor (3-5 days) and resolve themselves. Major delays (10+ days) usually mean one of three things: fabric issue (wrong dye lot, late delivery from mill), payment issue (deposit not received, LC issue), or capacity issue (factory is overloaded). Address the root cause, not just the symptom.
Can I do the inspection myself?
Yes, especially for the first 1-2 orders. Many small brand owners send their own QC person or visit the factory for the final inspection. After trust is established with the factory, third-party inspection is more cost-effective (your time has higher value than the 300-600 USD inspection cost).
How this fits the buyer journey
Each step of the 5-step process has a corresponding deep-dive article in our Apparel Guides cluster:
- Step 1 (Consultation) is grounded by what MOQ to expect and how to vet a factory
- Step 2 (Sample Approval) needs a complete tech pack to minimize sampling rounds
- Step 3 (Bulk Production) cost is governed by what drives per-piece pricing
- Step 4 (QC Inspection) is covered in our AQL and quality control guide
- Step 5 (Shipping & Delivery) details are in our FOB vs CIF vs DDP shipping guide
- And the model choice for OEM vs ODM vs private label sits in this comparison
This article is the hub. The seven linked articles are the spokes. Together, they form a complete decision-and-execution framework for custom apparel sourcing from China.
How we work at Kemondo
At Kemondo Apparel, every order goes through these 5 steps with weekly status updates. Standard timeline: 60-75 days for OEM with stock fabric, 90-110 days for OEM with custom fabric. We provide a written schedule at PO confirmation and a contact person for each step. In-house QC at every step, with third-party inspection included free for orders above 5,000 pieces.
Start a conversation about your next order: Message us on WhatsApp. We usually reply within 12 hours.