How to Source Custom Jackets and Outerwear: Linings, Fill, and Construction

Outerwear is where a garment stops being fabric and becomes engineering. A jacket is not one material: it is a shell, a lining, an interlining, insulation, a closure system, and a set of finishing operations that decide whether it looks expensive or looks like a costume. Get the interlining wrong and the collar collapses after one wash. Get the fill wrong and the warmth rating is a fiction. This guide covers every specification that matters for custom jackets and outerwear.

The 7 decisions that define an outerwear piece

Shell fabrics

Woven shells

Polyester and nylon are the workhorses of modern outerwear because they pack small, resist wind, and dry fast. Cotton is the choice when the garment is about appearance and heritage rather than weather performance. A cotton-canvas work jacket that has been washed fifty times looks better than a nylon shell that has been washed fifty times, and that is the whole argument for cotton.

Knit shells

Shell fabric specification checklist

• Composition with percentages, and the yarn count or denier
• Construction: twill, canvas, oxford, poplin, ripstop, quilted
• Weight in gsm, and the finished garment weight if it matters to the buyer
• Width: shell fabric for a jacket with a wide panel needs 150 cm or more, and narrower fabric drives up the panel count
• Water repellency: DWR-treated or untreated, and whether the treatment is factory-applied or mill-applied
• Abrasion resistance in Martindale cycles if the garment will be worn hard
• Shrinkage tolerance, especially for cotton shells

Lining: the part nobody specifies and everybody notices

The lining is what the wearer touches against their skin for the entire life of the garment. It is also the cheapest way to change how a jacket feels, and it is almost always left as “whatever the factory has”.

Lining types

Lining specification details

• Lining weight: 60-110 gsm is typical. Heavier lining drapes better and feels more substantial
• Stitch-through quilting: for a quilted lining, specify the batting weight (typically 40-80 gsm), the stitch spacing (usually 15-25 mm), and the quilting pattern (diamond, horizontal channel, or box)
• Lining to shell attachment: the lining is attached at the hem, the neck seam, and the sleeve head, and often only at the shoulder seam. Specify the attachment method, because a lining that is set loose at the shoulder is what makes a cheap jacket look cheap when the wearer moves
• Lining colour: a lining in a contrasting colour is visible every time the wearer moves. If you want it to read as an accent, specify it deliberately with its own Pantone code
• Lining and care label must agree with the shell in a blended garment. A cotton shell with a polyester lining gets a “do not tumble dry” symbol, and a customer who does not read it shrinks the shell

Interlining and interfacing: what holds a jacket together

The interlining is the hidden structure that gives a lapel its roll, a collar its shape, and a chest its form. It is invisible when it is right and obvious when it is wrong.

Types

Where to use what

• Chest: woven fusible. This is what stops the jacket collapsing across the chest when it is unbuttoned
• Collar and lapel: woven fusible, or hair canvas for a tailored construction
• Placket: woven fusible, to give the front panel its own body
• Waistband: buckram, to hold the shape without stretching
• Cuffs: light fusible or none

Fusing specification

• Fusing method: heat press, or a continuous fusing machine with a cooling conveyor
• Temperature and dwell time: specify these, because an under-fused panel delaminates and an over-fused panel scorches the shell
• Adhesive type: reactivation (re-fusable) adhesive allows the panel to be re-fused during a pressing operation, which matters for a jacket that may need alteration
• Fuse tolerance: the shell should not show any glue strike-through or a shine mark on the face. Glue strike-through is the most visible fusing defect

Insulation: down, fill, or none

Polyester fibre fill

• Fill weight: expressed in g/m2. 100-150 g/m2 is a light winter layer, 200-300 g/m2 is a cold-weather jacket
• Stitch-through construction: the fill is held in place by stitching through it in a diamond or channel pattern. Without stitching, the fill migrates and the garment has hot and cold spots
• Advantages: cheap, lightweight, dries fast, hypoallergenic, and loses almost nothing when wet
• Weakness: over time the fill compresses and loses loft, so it feels flat after a season

Down

• Fill power: the cubic inches one pound of down occupies. 550 is good, 700 is excellent, 800+ is premium. Higher fill power means more warmth for less weight
• Fill weight: 600-900 g of down is a serious winter parka
• Baffles: down is held in large sewn baffles rather than thin stitching, because down clusters are larger and need volume to loft
• Advantages: the best warmth-to-weight ratio available, compresses to almost nothing
• Weaknesses: loses loft when wet and takes hours to dry, needs a down-proof shell fabric and lining, and is more expensive. It also has a shorter lifespan than polyester fill, typically 10-15 years before the loft is gone

Wool

• Wool batting or wool felt for lining
• Excellent at absorbing moisture while staying warm, and it regulates temperature better than synthetics
• Heavier and more expensive than polyester fill, and it can feel itchy without a cotton layer against the skin

No insulation

A fashion jacket with no fill. The warmth comes from the shell fabric and the lining, and the silhouette is the product. This is the right choice for a brand selling style rather than weather performance, and it is the cheapest route to a premium-looking jacket.

The construction detail that decides how a filled jacket feels

Whether the insulation is in the body only, or in the body and the sleeves, changes the garment more than any other single specification. Body-only fill with unlined sleeves is a common cost saving, and it is immediately obvious to the wearer on a cold day. If you are quoting a winter jacket, specify the fill in both the body and the sleeves, and specify the sleeve lining as quilted if the body is quilted.

Weather resistance

Water repellent (DWR) versus waterproof

The rule that matters: a waterproof shell without sealed seams is not waterproof. The seams are where the water enters. A jacket can be rated 20,000 mm on the fabric and still leak through the shoulder seam. If you are marketing a jacket as waterproof, specify membrane rating AND sealed seams AND waterproof zippers, or do not use the word.

Wind resistance

• Dense woven shell: 280+ gsm cotton twill or a tightly woven nylon blocks wind without any treatment
• Softshell: the laminate face plus a fleece back gives wind resistance and warmth in one layer
• Windbreaker: very light, non-warm, packable, for layering

Closures and hardware

Zippers

Storm flaps and other closure details

• Storm flap: a strip of shell fabric behind the zip, covering it against wind and rain. Costs 0.15-0.40 USD and is the difference between a jacket that feels like outerwear and one that feels like a shell
• Snap placket: snaps over the zip for a closed look
• Snap closures: YKK or a quality equivalent, and specify the snap size (typically 15-20 mm)
• D-rings and webbing: for technical and workwear jackets, specify the webbing width and the D-ring size

Buttons

• Metal shank buttons, corozo, or matte plastic
• For outerwear, metal shank is the standard because it survives industrial washing and repeated use
• Specify the button diameter and the material; a 18 mm matte metal shank button reads as a work jacket

Construction

Shoulder construction

Sleeve head and the armhole

The sleeve head is the part of the jacket most buyers never see and most quality inspectors always check. A set-in sleeve without a properly shaped sleeve head will twist, wrinkle, and pull the shoulder forward when the arm is raised. Specify whether the sleeve head is set by hand or by machine, and request a photo of the finished armhole area on the sample.

Pockets

Cuffs, collar, and hem

• Cuffs: button, snap, elastic, rib (knit shells), or open. Specify the type and, for button cuffs, whether the button is functional
• Collar: the shape, the point length, and the stand height. Specify whether it is a convertible or a fixed collar, and whether it has a chin strap
• Hem: the length and the finishing. A clean turn-up with a visible stitch line reads as tailored; a coverstitched hem reads as athletic
• Vent detail: side vents or back vent, with or without buttons. Small detail, but the back vent is expected on a tailored jacket

Two-piece versus one-piece

A two-piece jacket (shell and lining joined at the seams) is warmer, better finished, and more expensive. A one-piece jacket (a shell with an attached facing) is faster and cheaper. Specify which one you are buying, because it changes the price by 1.50 to 4.00 USD per piece and the way the garment handles over time.

Fit and sizing

Fit types

Measurements to specify

• Chest (pit to pit, doubled), shoulder width, back length (centre back from the neck seam to the hem), sleeve length, sleeve opening, cuff opening, hem width
• Front length if the front and back differ, which they do on most fitted jackets
• Lapel width and collar point length for a tailored construction

Size run for a first jacket order

• S, M, L, XL, with a common allocation of S 18%, M 30%, L 29%, XL 18%, XXL 5%
• Outerwear skews larger than t-shirts because it layers over other clothes and because customers buy outerwear to fit over a coat

Full spec and grading details are in our sizing and grading guide.

Cost breakdown

Realistic FOB cost for a 300-piece order of midweight padded field jackets, 240 gsm cotton-poly twill shell, quilted satin lining, woven fusible chest and collar, storm flap, YKK two-way zip, four exterior pockets and one interior pocket:

What moves the cost on outerwear

• Lining type: unlined to quilted is 1.30-2.00 USD per piece
• Insulation: none to down is 1.50-4.50 USD, and down also changes the construction
• Interlining: none to hair canvas is 1.00-2.00 USD, mostly in labour
• Two-piece versus one-piece: 1.50-4.00 USD
• Zipper: standard to waterproof two-way is 0.60-2.00 USD
• Shell fabric: cotton twill to softshell is 1.50-3.00 USD per piece
• Pocket count: 0.20-0.45 USD per pocket, including the reinforcement

MOQ and lead time for outerwear

Outerwear runs longer than any other category in this cluster, because it has more components and more construction stages than a t-shirt. Stage-by-stage timing is in our lead times guide, and the MOQ logic is in our MOQ guide.

8 mistakes that cost outerwear buyers money

1. Leaving the lining as “whatever you have” — the lining is what the wearer touches for the life of the garment. Specify the type, the weight, and the colour, and see it on the sample.
2. Not specifying the interlining — a collar with no fusible interlining collapses at the first wear and cannot be reshaped. Specify woven fusible at minimum, on the chest, collar, and placket.
3. Calling a jacket waterproof without sealed seams — a waterproof shell with unsealed seams leaks at the shoulder. If you make the claim, specify membrane rating, sealed seams, and waterproof zippers together.
4. Specifying fill weight but not the fill type — 120 g/m2 of polyester and 120 g/m2 of down are entirely different products, and the down version needs a down-proof shell.
5. Forgetting the sleeve insulation — body-only fill with unlined sleeves is a common cost saving that a customer feels the first cold morning.
6. Not checking the sleeve head — a poorly set sleeve head makes the shoulder wrinkle and pull forward every time the arm moves. It is the highest-visibility construction defect in outerwear.
7. Under-specifying the closure — the zipper, the storm flap, the snaps, and the pocket closures together determine how the jacket looks closed and how it performs in rain.
8. Not budgeting the sample rounds — outerwear needs more rounds than any other product, because the fit depends on how the layers move together. Expect 2-3 rounds and budget the time.

Quality checks specific to outerwear

Add these to the inspection brief, because generic garment inspections miss all of them:

• Lining: attached at the hem, neck, and sleeve head, no pulling or twisting when the arm is raised, no loose threads at the neck seam
• Interlining: no glue strike-through or shine on the face, no bubbling or delamination at the collar and chest
• Collar: stands without collapsing, the point is symmetrical, the interlining is present
• Sleeve head: no twisting or forward pull at the shoulder when the arm is raised
• Zipper: operates smoothly in both directions, the storm flap covers it, the bottom box is anchored
• Insulation: fill is evenly distributed, no cold spots, no clumping or migration at the seams
• Pockets: reinforcement at the corners, the flap lies flat, the closure holds
• Cuff and hem: the cuff closes properly, the hem is even and the right length
• Stitching: the quilting pattern is consistent, the felled seams are clean on the inside, no skipped stitches

How to structure the inspection request is covered in our QC and AQL guide, and the operational version is in Step 4: QC Inspection.

Packaging for outerwear

• Folded flat, or on a hanger for a garment that must not crease. A structured jacket folded into a carton for a month will not come out wearable
• Individual poly bags, 0.05-0.06 mm. Do not vacuum-pack a down garment: compression damages the loft permanently
• Include a desiccant in the bag for a jacket that will be in a container for 30 days
• Typical unit load: 20-30 jackets per master carton, or 12-18 on hangers
• A 20ft container holds roughly 4,000-6,000 jackets; a 40ft high cube holds 9,000-13,000

Carton and container math is in our packaging and container optimization guide.

FAQ

How much should a custom jacket cost?

FOB from China, a 300-piece order of a lined field jacket with quilted satin lining, poly fill, YKK zip, and chest embroidery: roughly 12-18 USD per piece. An unlined fashion jacket in cotton twill runs 7.00-11.00 USD. A down parka with a technical shell runs 25-45 USD. DDP into the US typically lands 20-35% above the FOB price. For the general cost model, see our pricing guide.

What is the difference between a lined and an unlined jacket?

An unlined jacket is a single shell with facings at the openings. It is lighter, cheaper, faster to make, and it is what you want for a fashion piece or a summer jacket. A lined jacket has a full lining joined to the shell at the seams, which means it is warmer, drapes better, lasts longer, costs 1.50 to 4.00 USD more, and takes longer to make. Specify it, because the word “jacket” covers both.

How do I specify a jacket that will not look cheap?

Four things carry most of the perceived quality: a real lining in a deliberate weight, interlining on the chest, collar, and placket, a properly set sleeve head, and hardware that is named rather than generic. A 15 mm metal shank snap from a named supplier, a woven fusible collar, and a quilted lining will do more for the look of a jacket than doubling the shell fabric weight.

Should I use down or polyester fill?

Polyester fill for a first order: it is cheaper, it survives humidity, it dries overnight, it does not need a special shell, and it is far more forgiving if the specification drifts. Down is worth it when warmth-to-weight is the product, for a cold market, and when the brand can justify the premium and the shorter lifespan. If you use down, specify down-proof lining fabric and a certified fill weight and fill power, not just “down”.

Can a jacket be made waterproof?

Yes, but it takes three things together: a membrane-rated shell (10,000 mm for light rain, 20,000 mm for sustained), sealed seams, and waterproof zippers. A jacket with any one of the three missing is not waterproof, however good the fabric is. Sealed seams add 0.80-2.50 USD per piece, which is why genuine waterproof shells cost more.

How many sample rounds do jackets need?

Two to three, more than any other product here. The fit depends on how the shell, lining, and interlining move together, and that cannot be judged from a single flat sample. Budget 3-4 weeks for the sample stage and 100-400 USD per round including shipping.

What is a storm flap and does my jacket need one?

A strip of shell fabric behind the zipper that covers it from wind and rain. It costs 0.15-0.40 USD and it is the detail that makes a jacket feel like outerwear rather than a shirt with pockets. If your jacket is a field jacket, a parka, or anything meant for weather, specify one.

Can the same factory make both the shell and the lining?

Usually not. Shell fabric comes from a mill, lining fabric from a different mill, and the factory joins them. This means two fabric minimums, two lead times, and two chances for a colour mismatch between shell and lining. Specify both fabrics in the same tech pack so they are dyed in coordinated lots, and ask the factory to hold the shell fabric against the lining so they arrive together.

How do I keep the jacket from creasing in transit?

Ship it on a hanger rather than folded, which means the master carton has to be hanger-sized and the container loading is less efficient. If you fold, the crease will need pressing out on arrival, and a structured jacket that has been folded in a carton for 30 days needs more than a quick press. For a jacket with a quilted lining or a wool content, plan on hanging and on budget for a pressing service on arrival.

How this fits the buyer journey

Everything in the general cluster applies. These are the ones that matter most for outerwear:

• Custom Fabric Development — shell weight, constructions, water repellency, shrinkage
• Custom Apparel Sizing — fit types, chest measurement, length, sleeve opening
• Trims and Labels — main labels, care labels, and the fibre content rules for a layered garment
• Decoration Methods — embroidery and patches on a heavy shell
• Color and Dye Development — matching shell, lining, and hardware finishes
• Custom Apparel Pricing — what moves the cost on a layered garment
• MOQ Guide — why outerwear MOQ is higher
• Lead Times — outerwear runs the longest of any category
• Quality Control and AQL — the theory behind the inspection checks
• Step 4: QC Inspection — how to run the inspection on a lined garment
• Packaging and Container Optimization — hanging versus folding, and container space
• How to Source Custom Denim — the other woven category, and post-wash measurement
• Hoodies and Sweatshirts — the knit side of the fleece shell
• Polo Shirts — collar and placket construction, which a jacket shares
• Sustainable Custom Apparel — recycled shells and insulation
• How to Write a Tech Pack — the spec sheet that holds all these components
• The 5-Step Custom Apparel Process — the framework the order runs through

How we work at Kemondo

At Kemondo Apparel, outerwear is a category we build to a full component spec rather than a shell with a lining added at the end. Our quote always states the shell fabric with construction and weight, the lining type and weight, the interlining type and where it is applied, the insulation type and fill weight in g/m2, the closure with the zipper brand and model, the pocket list with reinforcement, and the finished garment weight. We work with two mills for shells and two for linings so a colour can be matched across both, and we pull them at the same time rather than sequentially, which is what avoids a jacket with a shell that does not match its lining. Our standard construction is two-piece lined with woven fusible on the chest, collar, and placket, a set sleeve head, and a YKK closure with a storm flap; we quote unlined and hair-canvas options as priced lines so you can see the difference rather than guessing. Every sample is checked for sleeve head twist and interlining adhesion before it is approved, because those are the two defects that a generic inspection does not catch and that a customer notices immediately. And we will tell you when a jacket you have described needs a construction step the price does not support, because a jacket that looks structured and is not is worse than a jacket that was honestly simple.

Planning an outerwear programme and want a real quote? Message us on WhatsApp with the garment type, intended use, target market, and quantity. We usually reply within 12 hours with a full component-by-component cost breakdown and an honest read on the MOQ and timeline.