Step 2 is where most first-time buyers lose 2-3 weeks they did not plan for. This guide walks through the 5 sample types a factory will make, how to give feedback that prevents costly rework, the realistic timeline for 1-3 sample rounds, and the trap signs that mean the factory is not going to get the bulk right.

Why Step 2 takes longer than you think

  • Most factories quote 5-7 days for a sample. Real timeline: 10-21 days for 1-3 rounds
  • Sample shipping alone is 3-7 days via DHL or FedEx, even from China
  • Your review and feedback timeline adds 1-3 days per round
  • Total realistic: 14-21 days for 1-3 sample rounds, all approved

The 5 types of samples (and when you need each)

1. Counter sample (reference sample)

  • Factory makes a sample from your reference image OR their existing similar product
  • Used when you do not have a tech pack yet (typical for first-time buyers)
  • Optional — useful for demonstrating the factory’s stock capabilities
  • Cost: 30-80 USD per piece

2. Fit sample

  • Made from your tech pack (or a brief)
  • Tests the fit, fabric hand feel, basic construction
  • Not the final design — shows silhouette and proportion
  • Cost: 30-100 USD per piece

3. Size set sample

  • One of each size in the size run
  • Tests grading and proportional fit across all sizes
  • Required for size runs greater than 3 sizes
  • Cost: 100-300 USD for full size set (5-7 sizes)

4. Pre-production sample (PPS)

  • Made with the actual bulk fabric, trims, and decoration
  • The “golden sample” — bulk production must match this within agreed tolerance
  • Required for every order
  • Cost: 50-150 USD per piece

5. Sales / marketing sample

  • Same construction as bulk, may use different fabric (e.g. lighter for photoshoot drape)
  • Used for photoshoots, sales meetings, pop-ups, lookbook images
  • Often higher cost than PPS (small quantity, no price break)
  • Optional — most brands skip for first orders

How to choose which samples you actually need

Minimum for first order

  • 1 fit sample (to verify factory understands your spec)
  • 1 size set sample (if size run is greater than 3 sizes)
  • 1 pre-production sample (the bulk reference)
  • Total: 3 samples typical

Cost breakdown (typical)

  • Fit sample: 30-100 USD
  • Size set (5 sizes): 100-300 USD
  • PPS: 50-150 USD
  • Shipping via DHL (usually combine): 50-200 USD per shipment
  • Total: 200-700 USD for the sample stage

For repeat orders, you can usually skip fit + size set and just do the PPS (saves 100-300 USD and 7-14 days).

Sample round timeline (realistic)

Round 1

  • Days 1-7: factory makes fit sample
  • Days 8-10: sample shipped to you via DHL
  • Days 11-14: you review, measure, write feedback
  • Days 14-21: factory revises and ships Round 2 OR moves to size set / PPS

Round 2 (if needed)

  • Same timeline, but factory is faster (they know your spec now)
  • Common revisions: fit tweaks, fabric adjustments, color shift, construction details
  • About 60% of orders need 2 sample rounds

Round 3 (rare)

  • About 10% of orders need 3 or more rounds
  • Usually means the spec or fit issue is significant
  • Consider going back to the brief or tech pack instead of trying to fix in Round 3

How to give sample feedback (the 5-step feedback loop)

Step 1: Measure the sample

  • Measure every POM (point of measure) on the sample
  • Compare to your spec sheet
  • Note exact deviations: e.g. “chest is 43 cm, spec is 42 cm, +1 cm”
  • Visual fit impression is NOT enough — always measure with a tape

Step 2: Test the fabric

  • Hand feel: how does it drape, how does it stretch, is it soft or scratchy
  • Wash test: cold machine wash + tumble dry low, then measure again (fabric often shrinks 2-5%)
  • Light test: hold up to light, check for sheer or opaque
  • Recovery test: stretch 20% and see if it bounces back

Step 3: Test decoration

  • Print: check underbase (white layer for color accuracy), color match against Pantone, registration (alignment between colors)
  • Embroidery: check thread colors against your spec, density (stitches per cm), backing presence
  • Sublimation: check color saturation, dye penetration (look at inside of fabric)

Step 4: Check construction details

  • Stitch type and SPI per your tech pack
  • Bartacks at stress points (pocket corners, belt loops, button holes)
  • Hem type and depth (e.g. 2 cm single-fold hem, 3 cm double-fold)
  • Label placement per your spec (1.5 cm below back neck seam, etc.)
  • Inside seams: clean finish, no loose threads, no raw edges

Step 5: Write structured feedback

  • Use a numbered list, not prose
  • Group by severity: critical (must fix), major (should fix), minor (nice to fix)
  • Reference your tech pack POMs by number
  • Provide visual annotations (photos with arrows)
  • Be specific: “chest +1 cm oversize” not “feels too big”

Common sample mistakes that delay the next round

  • Vague feedback (“the color is wrong” without specifying what is wrong)
  • Inconsistent feedback (different reviewer each round, different priorities)
  • No measurements (only visual impression)
  • No wash test (only evaluating dry sample)
  • Spec changes after Round 1 (factory has to redo the sample)
  • Fabric changes after Round 1 (factory has to re-source)

What to do when the sample is “almost right”

  • Specify the exact issues in a numbered list
  • Note measurements vs. spec for each POM
  • Provide photos with annotations (arrows, circles)
  • Avoid “can we make it just a little…” feedback — be precise

What to do when the sample is significantly wrong

  • Do not try to fix it in Round 2 — go back to the brief
  • Check: was the tech pack clear? Was the right fabric sourced? Did the factory understand the fit?
  • Consider fresh counter sample from a different factory
  • Decide: is it a factory issue, brief issue, or spec issue?

The Pre-Production Sample (PPS) — the most important sample

The PPS is the “golden sample” — bulk production must match this within agreed tolerance. Treat it seriously:

  • Sign off on PPS in writing (email confirmation at minimum)
  • Specify tolerance and acceptable variation in writing (e.g. “PPS approved with ±0.5 cm tolerance on chest”)
  • Keep a PPS sample in your archive (factory will too, but you should)
  • Reference PPS in the contract or PO so it has contractual weight

How to manage multiple sample rounds without losing time

  • Set a sample deadline per round: e.g. “Round 1 by Oct 25, Round 2 by Nov 8”
  • Communicate the deadline upfront with the factory
  • Approve revisions same-day (do not sit on feedback — every day you sit costs the factory idle time)
  • Combine samples where possible (size set and PPS in same run saves 5-7 days)

Common factory signals that the bulk will not match the PPS

  • Factory uses cheaper fabric on sample than what will be sourced in bulk (sample fabric mill differs from bulk fabric mill)
  • Factory uses better labor on sample (high-paid tailor) than bulk line (regular sewers)
  • Factory makes samples in a different facility than bulk production
  • Factory refuses to provide a PPS sample
  • Factory rushes the PPS without proper inspection

How to handle these signals

  1. Ask for the actual bulk fabric mill certificate (not just the sample fabric certificate)
  2. Visit the factory during bulk production (or send a QC person)
  3. Insist on third-party inspection for the first 2-3 bulk orders
  4. If the factory is evasive about bulk vs. PPS, walk away

FAQ

How many sample rounds should I expect?

1-3 rounds is typical. 1 round is fast factories with simple products. 2 rounds is standard for new factories. 3+ rounds usually means the spec is unclear or the product is genuinely complex.

Can I skip the PPS and go straight to bulk?

Strongly advise against. The PPS is your reference for bulk. Skipping means you have no baseline to reject against. Some very simple products (basic stock-blank t-shirt, no decoration) can skip — but most orders need a PPS to be safe.

How long should each sample round take?

5-10 days factory production + 3-7 days shipping + 1-3 days your review = 9-20 days per round, round-trip.

Who pays for samples?

  • Sample fees are typically 30-150 USD per piece
  • Usually refunded on bulk order above MOQ (some factories do, some do not — confirm in writing before paying)
  • Shipping costs (50-200 USD) usually not refunded

What if the factory’s sample looks great but bulk fails inspection?

This is common — sample and bulk can differ significantly. Cause: factory uses better fabric or labor on samples. Prevention: insist on third-party inspection for the first 2-3 bulk orders. Detection: AQL sampling at pre-shipment inspection.

Can I use the sample for retail (sell it)?

Some brands do, especially for limited drops. Risks: sample may not match bulk, may not have all certifications, may not be labeled correctly for retail. Better to use a “sales sample” (separate run, marked as not for retail).

Should I approve the PPS if it is “almost right”?

No — the PPS is the bulk reference. Approve only if it is exactly right. Better to do another round than approve a wrong PPS. Exception: documented minor issues with tolerance specified (e.g. “PPS approved with +0.5 cm on chest, applied to bulk within the same tolerance”).

What if I want to change fabric after PPS approval?

Possible but expensive:

  • New fabric sourcing: 5-10 days if stock fabric, 15-30 days if custom
  • New sample round: 7-14 days
  • Delay the whole order by 2-4 weeks

What is the difference between a “proto sample” and a “fit sample”?

In some factory workflows, a proto sample is the first version made from the tech pack (in cheaper fabric / faster construction), and a fit sample is the second version with the actual fabric. In other workflows, they are the same. Always confirm with your factory what they mean by each term.

How this fits the buyer journey

Sample is Step 2 of the 5-step process:

How we work at Kemondo

At Kemondo Apparel, our standard sample workflow:

  • Round 1: fit sample (free if simple, 50 USD per style otherwise)
  • Round 2 (if needed): fit revision + size set sample = 100-200 USD
  • Pre-production sample: 50-150 USD per piece, with the actual bulk fabric and decoration
  • Sample cost refunded on bulk order above MOQ
  • Standard sample timeline: 14-21 days total (1-2 rounds)

For first orders, we recommend the fit + size set + PPS approach. Repeat orders can often skip fit (just PPS). Rush orders: rush fee plus 30-50% premium for samples.

Have questions about your sample round? Message us on WhatsApp. We usually reply within 12 hours with sample timeline estimates and round count recommendations.