Step 3 is where the actual garment happens. This guide walks through the 6 sub-stages of bulk production (from fabric sourcing to packing), where the time goes, the 5 most common production delays, and what you need to approve or check at each transition before your bulk gets to Step 4 inspection.
Why Step 3 is the longest stage
- 25-50 days for OEM with stock fabric
- 35-75 days for OEM with custom fabric (fabric mill is the bottleneck)
- 6 distinct sub-stages, each with its own approval gate
- Factory capacity, labor skill, and machinery all converge in this stage
The 6 sub-stages of bulk production
1. Fabric sourcing
- Stock fabric: 5-10 days for factory to draw from warehouse
- Custom fabric: 15-25 days for mill to dye and deliver
- Trims: 5-10 days sourced in parallel with fabric (often a hidden bottleneck)
- Labels: 7-15 days (often longer than fabric, especially custom woven)
2. Pre-production meeting
- Factory reviews the PPS, tech pack, and order details
- Identifies any ambiguities in the spec
- Confirms fabric selection, trim list, decoration plan
- Confirms production line and capacity allocation
- Duration: 1-2 days
3. Cutting
- Fabric is spread on cutting table in layers (up to 100+ layers for thin knits)
- Pattern pieces laid on top, traced or projected
- Cut with electric rotary cutter or band saw
- Bundled per size per color, labeled for sewing
- Duration: 1-3 days depending on quantity
4. Sewing
- Pieces are sewn into garments on production lines
- Each line typically handles one operation (e.g. “sleeve attach” line, “side seam” line)
- Garments move through 10-30 operations to complete
- Duration: 5-15 days depending on complexity and quantity
- Quality checks built into the line (“in-line QC” — see Step 4)
5. Decoration
- Print, embroidery, sublimation, or other decoration applied
- Duration: 3-7 days for most decoration methods
- Specialty decoration (applique, 3D puff, rhinestones) may add 5-10 days
6. Finishing and packing
- Washing (if specified)
- Pressing and ironing
- Final inspection
- Folding per packaging spec
- Individual poly bag
- Inner box + master carton
- Duration: 1-3 days depending on quantity
Where the time goes (by sub-stage)
| Sub-stage | Typical duration |
|---|---|
| Fabric sourcing | 5-25 days (longer for custom) |
| Pre-production meeting | 1-2 days |
| Cutting | 1-3 days |
| Sewing | 5-15 days |
| Decoration | 3-7 days |
| Finishing + packing | 1-3 days |
| Total (stock fabric) | 25-50 days |
| Total (custom fabric) | 35-75 days |
The 5 most common production delays
1. Fabric mill delay
- Custom dye lot runs late due to mill capacity or quality issues
- The single biggest cause of OEM bulk delays
- Solution: place fabric orders as early as possible, pre-confirm mill capacity before bulk starts
2. Trims arrive late
- Custom labels, hang tags, zippers from separate suppliers
- Often forgotten in the production schedule
- Solution: order trims concurrently with fabric, not sequentially after fabric arrives
3. Decoration capacity bottleneck
- Print or embroidery shop overloaded during peak season (Aug-Oct, Feb-Mar)
- Solution: book the decoration shop in advance when PO is placed
4. Line reassignment or shutdown
- Factory changes its production plan mid-stream (rare but does happen)
- More common with new factories or capacity-constrained factories
- Solution: confirm production line assignment at PO confirmation in writing
5. Quality rejections mid-production
- In-line inspection finds defect rate above threshold
- Garments get reworked or remade, adding 3-7 days
- Solution: tight tech pack with clear tolerances reduces rework frequency
The production schedule document
After PO confirmation, ask the factory for a written production schedule with milestone dates for each sub-stage. Typical milestones:
- Fabric delivered to factory
- Pre-production meeting held
- Cutting started and completed
- Sewing at 50% complete and 100% complete
- Decoration complete
- Final inspection report signed
- Packing complete
This document becomes your tracking reference. Update it weekly with the factory.
How to track production without visiting the factory
- Ask for production photos at each milestone (with date stamps and identifiable background)
- Request in-line inspection reports (see QC and AQL guide)
- Use the production schedule as a reference and check in every 5-7 days
- Ask for any deviation from the schedule immediately, not at the end
Common production mistakes first-time buyers make
1. Treating fabric and trims as separate sequential workstreams
Fabric: 5-25 days. Trims: 5-15 days. If ordered sequentially, total is 20-40 days. If ordered in parallel, total is max(5-25, 5-15) = 5-25 days. Always order them in parallel.
2. Skipping the pre-production meeting
Factory jumps straight to cutting without a kickoff conversation, and ambiguities surface mid-production. Solution: insist on a pre-production meeting (in person or video) before cutting starts.
3. Approving changes without going back to spec
A verbal “can we make the sleeve just a little longer?” is approved. Factory makes the change without updating the spec. The bulk production drifts. Solution: any change goes through a formal written revision, then verify it in production.
4. Not paying attention to production photos
Factory sends “photos” of finished production that are actually the same images as the PPS. Solution: ask for photos with date stamps and an identifiable background (factory floor, machine, calendar).
5. Letting production run unsupervised
Skip weekly check-ins for a month. Surprise: 2 weeks late at the packing stage. Solution: weekly status updates with the factory, even short ones.
6. Skipping in-line inspection
All QC at the end of production. Bulk fails inspection at 15% defect rate, requires 100% rework, adds 7-10 days. Solution: in-line inspection at 30-50% production (see Step 4).
7. Not visiting the factory during production
For first orders, an in-person visit typically reduces surprises by 50-80%. For repeat orders, less critical but still useful.
The role of QC during Step 3
This is where Step 4 (QC inspection) interfaces with Step 3:
- In-line inspection at 30-50% sewing complete (catches fabric, construction, sizing issues early)
- Final random inspection at 100% complete (confirms AQL pass rate)
- Pre-shipment inspection after packing (confirms quantity, packaging, labeling)
The factory should run its own QC throughout production. The AQL inspection you hire confirms that bulk matches the PPS within tolerance.
How to handle a production delay
Step 1: Get the latest revised timeline in writing
Force the factory to commit to specific dates, not vague estimates. Verbal “we’ll do it as soon as possible” is not enough.
Step 2: Identify the bottleneck
Fabric? Trims? Sewing line? Decoration? Packing? Negotiate acceleration on the specific bottleneck, not the whole order.
Step 3: Decide if acceleration is worth the cost
- Rush fee: 10-20%
- Air shipping: 4-8 USD per kg extra
- Re-source part of the order from another factory: 20-40% premium
Step 4: Push back firmly in writing
“We agreed to 35-day production. We are at day 42 and the order is not packed. Please provide a revised timeline in writing with specific dates.”
What you can do to speed things up
- Pre-confirm everything (PPS, tech pack, fabric, trims) before bulk starts
- Pay the deposit immediately so the factory can source materials
- Approve lab dips and strike-offs same-day, not 3 days later
- Book the decoration shop in advance when the PO is placed
- Place the production line order before PO confirmation (so the line is reserved)
FAQ
How long should bulk production take?
25-50 days for OEM with stock fabric, 35-75 days with custom fabric. Less for stock-blank t-shirt with simple decoration. More for jackets, jeans, or complex multi-fabric garments.
What is “production time” vs “lead time”?
Production time is just the bulk production stage. Lead time includes sample plus production plus shipping. Total lead time for a first OEM order is typically 60-120 days, of which bulk production is the largest single component.
What happens if a factory uses different fabric than sampled?
PPS approval should specify fabric mill and certificate (e.g. “PPS approved with 180 gsm, 100% cotton, combed, ring-spun from mill XYZ, certificate ABC”). Third-party inspection at in-line stage catches fabric substitution if it happens.
Can I visit the factory during production?
Most factories allow customer visits during production. Schedule ahead (1-2 weeks). For first orders, this is one of the highest-value activities — you catch issues before they compound. For repeat orders, less critical but still useful.
How do I keep track of progress if I cannot visit?
- Ask for weekly status updates (text or email)
- Ask for photos at each milestone (with date stamps)
- Use the production schedule as your tracking reference
- Ask for any deviation from the schedule immediately
Most factories have a dedicated customer service contact who sends these on request.
What if the factory wants to change fabric mid-production?
Insist on written approval before any change. The original PPS was approved with specific fabric — substitution breaks that approval. If a real supply issue forces the change, document with samples and approve in writing.
What if line reassignment happens mid-production?
- Ask which production line is now handling your order
- Ask for the production supervisor’s contact
- Ask for an updated completion estimate
- If this happens on a small first order, consider switching factories for repeat
Can I cancel a bulk order mid-production?
Theoretically yes (most PO contracts allow cancellation with a fee), but in practice:
- You pay for materials sourced so far
- You pay a cancellation fee (typically 10-30% of order value)
- Materials may not be reusable for other orders
Best practical path: try to negotiate completion and ship, even if late, then evaluate for future orders.
What is “production capacity” and why does it matter?
The factory’s production capacity is the maximum number of garments they can produce per month given their equipment and labor. Smaller factories (50-100 workers) typically have 30,000-100,000 pieces per month capacity. Larger factories (500+ workers) can produce 500,000+ pieces per month. For your order to start on time, the factory needs free capacity at the time of your PO — which is harder during peak season (Aug-Oct, Feb-Mar).
How this fits the buyer journey
Step 3 sits between sampling and inspection:
- Step 1: Consultation — completed before bulk starts
- Step 2: Sample Approval — PPS is the bulk reference standard
- Step 3: Bulk Production — this guide
- QC and AQL Guide — Step 4 inspection wraps Step 3
- How to Write a Tech Pack — drives fabric specification and measurement tolerance
- Lead Times Guide — Step 3 is the longest single stage
How we work at Kemondo
At Kemondo Apparel, our production schedule includes milestones for each sub-stage, shared with the buyer at PO confirmation. Standard timeline: 25-35 days for stock fabric, 35-50 days for custom fabric. In-line inspection at 30-50% production, third-party inspection at 100% complete (included free for orders above 5,000 pieces). Weekly status updates via WeChat or email. For first orders, we encourage (but do not require) buyer visits during production. Production photos sent at each milestone with date stamps and identifiable factory background.
Have questions about production timing for your next order? Message us on WhatsApp. We usually reply within 12 hours with a realistic production schedule for your product and order size.